The ancient history of Lyon silk is intimately linked to kings.
Interview with Cédric Brochier,
Erasme, A web documentary on the textile industry of the Lyon Metropolis
The ancient history of Lyon silk is intimately linked to kings: Charles VII, François I, Henri IV, Louis XIV, and then Napoleon I all ardently contributed to the development of the silk industry in Lyon.
In the 15th century, Lyon became an important center of European trade. King Charles VII granted the city the right to organize several tax-free fairs. Among other goods, many silks from Italy were sold there.
King François I supported and encouraged the establishment of the first two Italian weavers in Lyon. Privileges concerning the production of gold, silver, and silk fabrics were granted to them, allowing them to attract the best foreign workers. The activity quickly prospered.
The Wars of Religion broke out, and major merchants and manufacturers left the city. Workers, lacking work, joined competing Italian cities. The high taxation on the import of raw silk by King Charles IX led to a significant loss of competitiveness. The activity declined.
King Henri IV revived the silk industry by encouraging and supporting the development of silkworm breeding, particularly in the Cévennes and Ardèche regions. Meanwhile, techniques evolved: Claude Dangon imported and improved the “grande tire” loom, which now allowed the production of beautiful fabrics in a large width.
During the reign of King Louis XIV, Colbert rigorously regulated the profession: the Lyon fabric organized all those involved in weaving from 1667. It specified the quality of productions and the organization of an original production model. Orders for gold and silver brocades to furnish various royal residences poured in. Lyon merchants exported throughout Europe the innovations they created for the fashion of Versailles and Paris. Collections with original patterns quickly followed, leaving behind Italian, English, or Dutch competition struggling to keep up with the pace set by Lyon silk manufacturers.
The French Revolution dealt a severe blow to the Lyon fabric, but Napoleon I vigorously revived the sector with very important orders destined, among others, for the Tuileries Palace and the Fontainebleau Palace, and encouraged official elites to wear silk. The Jacquard loom, once developed by Joseph Marie Jacquard in Lyon, was very successful and quickly replaced the draw looms. It allowed for significant time savings and the weaving of much more complex patterns, although the selling price remained very high.
In the 19th century, the upheaval of social structures saw the rise of the bourgeoisie, who, like the nobility, wanted to dress in silk. Lyon silk then reached its peak. It became the most powerful French export industry and outperformed all other silk industries in Europe.
Lyon became the world capital of silk.
To learn more, visit the Musée Soieries Brochier.